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Your May 2018 Postcard from Norm: The best island in the world that no tourist can visit.

5/15/2018

9 Comments

 
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​It’s been named the best island in the world by the Travel + Leisure Magazine, CNN, the New York Times Travel, and many others, and the top island for tourism in the Philippines. Now, it’s shut down; closed to tourists and any visitors; an island quarantined from the outside world and guarded by the military; uniformed troops with machine guns patrolling its beaches.
 
Welcome to Boracay.

​The island has also been in the news lately, as the Philippines President, Rodrigo Duterte, upon a recent visit, called the once-pristine island "a cesspool." In an unprecedented move, he ordered it closed to all tourism until the island's environmental issues could be addressed. ​
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The problem? Basically, a couple million people a year create a lot of human waste, and the island has no sewage processing plants. So, everything ends up in the water system and flushed out to sea, where it's changed the ecosystem so much that a huge field of green algae plagues the shores of the island. Gross, right? ​

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So, as of April 26, 2018, the once-bustling Boracay is completely shut down for six months as they work to install a sewage system that will accommodate all of those tourists, among other environmental and infrastructure mandates.

Virtually overnight, the island went from an everyday population of around 50,000 people to only several hundred. It's a surreal situation, leaving people scrambling to figure out if they could stay, had to go, or how they could make a living.

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According to the Philippines government, long-time residents, property owners, and business owners could stay, as could employees of those businesses. They could also keep their hotels, bars, restaurants, and shops open for business… except now that there would be no tourists walking the sandy shores or spending money. All tourists – both foreigners and Filipinos – are banned from the island, with armed troops, police, and coast guard patrolling the beaches, roads, and seaport.
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The before and after photos are shocking, as you can see what Boracay looked like only one year ago (at the popular Laboracay festival) compared to now.

​What's lost in the international headlines and local political debate is the plight of the 26,000 people who live and work there, as well as many more who commute there by ferry every day to work. In fact, nearly the entire populace of the island – and the province of Aklan on the neighboring island – make their living off of tourism. 

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Now, only one month into the six-month closure, they're already suffering, keeping their kids out of school because they can't afford tuition and uniforms, trying to sell everything they own except the shirts on their backs, and, in many cases, going hungry.
 
I’ve had a long and notable relationship with the island and its people, which I'll recap in this postcard.

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​1999
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I first stepped foot on the sands of Boracay in 1999, another impromptu stop on a trip backpacking around the world with my good American buddy, Phil. The island still had very few tourists on it, as I remember just a smattering of guest houses and nipa huts in the middle of the jungle. While the beach was spotless and beautiful, it was still wild, and the small number of foreigners tended to be German guys there to engage the surprising number of Filipino transvestites. Yes, you read that right. There were even signs to attract "Third Sex" patrons at beauty parlors and other businesses.  
 
While I didn’t partake in that local tradition, I did do a whole lot of swimming. I was coming off running (or attempting to run) a marathon in the nearby city of Cebu, and my feet were so tore-up and bloody from wearing new sneakers that I could barely walk, limping around the sand path for the week we were there.
 
What does silver screen starlet Liz Taylor have to do with Boracay? Learn more about the history of the island here.
 
But I could still swim, and did so for an hour every morning and afternoon, dodging the small local Barka fishing boats while watching the most beautiful sunsets I’d ever seen. 
 
That was Boracay, and I gave it little thought after we left for the next exciting destination.

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​2013
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I came back to Boracay in 2013, 14 years after I first visited. Having just moved to Asia six months prior, I wanted to try life in the Philippines as an expat instead of my former stop, Vietnam. So, I came back to Boracay and lived there for several months.
 
Already, it was unrecognizable. That little sand path gave way to a larger sand lane that spanned the whole 3-mile beach front. Those small guest houses and huts were now modern resorts, shops, and restaurants. 
 
But it hadn't lost what made it unique – the perfect white sand beach like talcum powder running through your hands. The beach and the shallow turquoise waters were pristine, and you couldn’t even find a bottle cap, cigarette butt, or plastic bag discarded anywhere. 
 
The people living there were still locals, too, and there was a sense of community and family among the island’s inhabitants. While there were a lot of tourists already, I had no idea how much it would grow in the future – or what was coming next.

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​Typhoon Yolanda hits Boracay.
 
On November 8, 2013, Typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan) slammed into the Philippines, killing tens of thousands and burying parts of whole coastal cities in water. With wind gusts up to 278 km/h (235 mph) and 10 meter (30 foot) sea swells, it was considered the strongest typhoon in recorded history ever to make landfall. Yolanda was heading right for the isolated and unprotected island of Boracay, too. 
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I was still living on Boracay at the time, and news of the coming storm gained my attention a few days out, when locals started boarding up their windows, long lines formed for supplies at the local stores, and the impending typhoon made every headline.
 
I tried to evacuate to the neighboring mainland along with thousands of other stranded tourists and locals. But we were turned away since the Coast Guard shut down all boat traffic off the island 48 hours before the typhoon.  
 
Looking around the island, it registered that we'd all be underwater if those sea swells did come. Resigned that I might be facing my demise, I stocked up on supplies, too, said my goodbyes and headed down to a little bar on the beach to watch the storm come in until it grew unsafe.
 
Luckily, the heart of the typhoon blew just south of Boracay, so the island was spared the horrors that devastated Leyte, Samara, and Tacloban. 
 
I took some video and wrote blogs about the typhoon that went viral, earning me interviews with international media like CNN and more. 
 
Soon after, I was able to leave Boracay, and I eventually moved to Cambodia.

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​2015-2017 
 
The experience of being on Boracay for the typhoon and its aftermath was my inspiration as I wrote my most recent travel memoir, The Queens of Dragon Town.
 
After I moved away to Cambodia, I still managed to visit the Philippines once a year, including Boracay. I enjoyed checking in on old friends who live there (Mox, Hayden, Anthony, Marix, etc.) and introducing new buddies to the island (Scotty Powell, Judd Reid). 
 
But the island that used to be wild and pristine was now overrun with tourists. In fact, last year, more than 2 million tourists came to Boracay, including 375,000 Chinese and 356,000 South Koreans, who have a reputation for being loud, rude, littering, treating locals poorly, and doing just about everything they could to denigrate the environment.
 
However, all of those tourists did bring in more than 56 Billion Pesos in revenue, so the island was now a turnstile of commercialism – and the beach and the water suffered, growing noticeably more spoiled and polluted every time I visited. 
 
I still soaked up the sun and wallowed in the waves for a few days but, longing for the Boracay of yesteryear, I started researching the culture and history of the island, too. To learn a little bit about what I discovered, check out these 50 facts about Boracay.
 
This year, I’m living not so far off in Dumaguete, but had no intention of returning to Boracay until…

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June/July/August? 2018
 
My bond with Boracay just took an unexpected turn. 

Even as the island is sealed off to tourism, they are allowing a small number of media to visit, documenting the story of its closure and environmental rehabilitation. Today, I received an email that my request for a media credential was approved by the Department of Tourism. 

As a hobby, I write a weekly column for the humble hometown paper here in Dumaguete, the Metro Post. Evidently, that was enough for them to grant me a media pass to visit the island – one of a handful of non-Filipinos who will be allowed on Boracay over the next few months (together with representatives from the BBC, the Philippines Information Agency, and others).​

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I’ve been instructed to fly to Makati (the business center of the capital city, Manila) to pick up my press pass ASAP, and then make arrangements to go stay there, where only a few businesses, hotels, and restaurants are still open, I hear.
 
I’ve enlisted my dear, old friend, Hayden, who is an accomplished and trusted tour guide there, to help me arrange interviews with locals, business owners, and government officials. 
 
What will I see when I get there? What stores does Boracay have to tell? What will the future hold for the world’s best island, which was a victim of its own popularity? 
 
I look forward to finding out – and sharing those answers with you.

-Norm  :-)

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9 Comments
Christina Howe link
5/16/2018 06:12:19 am

Excellent article Norm. You are a captivating writing. Does the government plan to invest in a sewage treatment plant and eventually re-open to the public?
You are truly living my friend, I’m inspired by lifestyle.

Reply
Chris Tamas and Lorie Tamas
5/16/2018 06:35:14 am

We were also there for the typhoon you probably remember our names and picture I'm really wondering what the government's going to do with that Island are they going to build a casino are they accepting money from China or are they really taken care of the island thanks for your story please stay in touch

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Jean Rhodes
5/16/2018 08:05:25 am

Great article norm. I sure wish I could hope on a plane and visit my son on station 3.

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Carl Olson
5/16/2018 10:38:06 am

World class stuff there my friend....enjoyed the read. Amazing how "tens of thousands" may perish in far off lands, true eco events we can learn from happen and our media worry about silly things. Keep keeping it real for us.

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Kathryn
5/16/2018 11:29:50 am

I really enjoyed reading this, thank you for shedding light on the situation. Hopefully they can find a way to stabilize it and create a more sustainable, natural Boracay. Looking forward to reading your first hand account of the situation as it goes along. ♥️

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Edgar
5/16/2018 01:45:53 pm

Great article Norm. So I'm just curious what you think is the best approach and solution for this problem? I agree it is a huge hardship for the residents of the island but on the flipside it's a hazard for tourists which will eventually result in a huge loss of tourism but most importantly this can become a huge hazard for the residents.

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Achim link
5/17/2018 04:20:42 am

Thanks for the article about Boracay, Norm. Yes it´s really worse what happened there in the last years. A few have earned lot of in tourism, some have at least found some work but there are very poor people living on Boracay, have not benefited from tourism. Some of these people have now also lost their homes and land because they built their huts partly too close to the sea. Now they must tear down their homes themself under the supervision of the army and receive no compensation. And I hope the president actions on Boracay are just for the sake of environmental protection and are not related to the planned Players-Paradise-Project with the Chiniese. Hopefully you can also report about this issue and to talk to this people. I would be happy to make contact with our relatives or to our partners of our aid projects on Boracay and in Malay. Since the Typhoon Haiyan in 2013, we have started some aid projects with schools and daycare centers and we try continuing to carry them out in the difficult situation right now. Happy hearing from you. Achim

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Peter hardes
5/17/2018 09:21:57 am

Hi norm
I was there with you when typhoon hit .we went up on the roof and shot some videos and pic of the typhoon . I was said to hear about the closing of boracay , will be interested to read your report
Cheers pete (Aussie)

Reply
Jodi
5/17/2018 01:02:34 pm

Another great article~ Very interesting facts. Thank you for letting us into your world and congratulations on your media credentials. I look forward to keeping us all informed~

Jodi

Reply



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    Norm Schriever

    Norm Schriever is a best-selling author, expat, cultural mad scientist, and enemy of the comfort zone. He travels the globe, telling the stories of the people he finds, and hopes to make the world a little bit better place with his words.   

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