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The Last Wave: Mike Boyum's final days in Siargao, the Philippines

12/10/2019

6 Comments

 
This is part 3 of a 3-part series on the life and legend of surfer Mike Boyum.

You can read part one and part two here.
***
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​One morning in late 1988, as islanders hung Christmas decorations in the village square, a wild-eyed American strolled into General Luna carrying a battered surfboard. 
 
He, introduced himself as “Max Walker.” 
 
The late Mayor Jaime Rusillion remembers it well since there weren’t many foreigners and surfing was nonexistent. Mayor Rusillon even started calling the man “Mad Max” after the popular Mel Gibson flick, and the name stuck. 
 
Mad Max asked the mayor’s permission to make camp on a palm-lined outcropping of beach called Tuason Point in the Catangnan region.
 
There were no stores, eateries, electricity, or, even other people around Mad Max’s new home, and it was a good 3-kilometer hike just to get to the dusty fishing village of General Luna.
 
But the solitude was just fine for Mad Max, as he preferred to stay out of sight. The man who called himself Max Walker also had different motivation for living on Tuason Point: it was only steps away from the best reef break he’d ever seen.

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By some accounts, he was the first person to ever surf in that spot, which would later be dubbed “Cloud Nine” and achieve world fame among surfers and travelers alike. However, I read somewhere that he first heard of the surf break from Tony Arruza and Steve Jones, American and Aussie surfers who first found Siargao in 1980 and called it "Jacking Horse."

But the old school Siargao expats I talked to never heard those names, and claim that Max Walker identified first the reef break from marine charts, as he was apt to do. 

Either way, Cloud Nine is a “hollow and heavy right-hand barrel; for experience riders only.” (I put that in quotes because I’m not a surfer and don’t know jack-shit above waves except that they’re wet and I like jumping in them!) 

I do know that it’s located on the southeastern coast of the Philippines island of Siargao, where I now live. In fact, my little green house on Purok 1 (Road 1) is probably only a hundred meters from where the solo, mysterious American surfer first made his presence known.

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The island of Siargao is on the eastern-most edge of the Philippines’ 7,600+ islands (making it the second-largest archipalego in the world). Due east of Siargao you’ll find the Philippine Deep in the Marianna Trench, the lowest point on earth; a 34,000 under-sea chasm that is deeper than Mount Everest is tall. This seemingly-bottomless trench leads to unique wave conditions where they gain energy and blast right for the coast, colliding with off-shore reefs to create perfect, impossibly long barrels.

In fact, Cloud Nine is now considered one of the five toughest reef breaks in the world and Surf Magazine named it as one of the ten best waves in the world. (It’s also called ‘Crowd Nine’ because of its touristy appeal.)
​
Although he probably “discovered” Cloud Nine from a surf perspective, he arrived at the start of the worst period for surfing Siargao’s waves, as January to April bring consistent onshore winds from the northeast, enveloping the island in monsoon rains.
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Tasked with filling his long, lonely days with more than surfing, Mad Max turned introspective. He was already an avid fitness fanatic, maintaining a macrobiotic diet and regularly fasting. Settled into his secluded hut while rain poured around him for weeks, he underwent another such fast that was supposed to last 40 days. 
 
He’d completed 40-day fasts before, so took the necessary safety precautions. Max arranged for a well-respected local to come check on him periodically, making sure he was ok and providing water or a squeeze of lemon juice. 
 
However, during his final fast here in Siargao, the man who was supposed to come to check on Max couldn’t get there until the 46th day because of a big storm.
 
By then, Max Walker had grown so weak that his body just gave out. They say he passed away on June 14, 1989 – his 43rd birthday and the 43rd day of the fast. 
 
Of course, John Michael “Mike” Boyum also died on June 14, 1989, as the two men were one in the same. ​

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​But the locals, including Mayor Ramillio, only found out Boyum’s true identity upon his death. Ramillo was smart enough to know that “Max Walker” was an alias (it was actually the name of a popular cartoon character at the time).

​He probably also realized why Boyum was on the run and hiding out in Siargao, as the Hawaiian authorities (and, more importantly, the Maui Mob) were still looking for him. 

But General Luna’s mayor also wasn’t one to pry in the young American’s affairs, and genuinely considered the man a friend. ​​

​(Mayor Rusillon passed away on April 26, 2019, considered a beloved hero and "The Godfather of Philippines Surfing.")

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However, Mayor Ramillio had no idea just how famous (and notorious) Boyum was until surfers and fans started showing up in Siargao, too, paying tribute to the surf icon’s death…and also riding the waves that were fast becoming legendary.
 
Tuason Point continued to gain attention – both as a shrine to Boyum/Walker and an epic surf break. 
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​A few years later, Surf Magazine came to do an expose on Siargao along with pro surfers like Taylor Know and Evan Slater. One of their photographers, an American named John S, Callahan, thought the waves there looked like the Cloud Nine chocolate bar that is still popular in the Philippines. 
 
“I named the break after the local no-melt chocolate bars,” says Callahan. “Going into town after lunch for a warm Coke and a Cloud 9 was the highlight of our day.
 
When the Surf Magazine piece was released, the secret was out: “Cloud Nine” was a new mecca for surfers around the world. 
 
Today, it’s still a surf haven, and rapidly becoming one of the coolest (in my estimation) and best (according to various travel magazines) islands in the world, yet alone Southeast Asia. 
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​And what of Mike Boyum?
 
Passing away while on a self-imposed fast was just one version of his death. 
 
Another account puts his death in April of that year. Still another says he drowned while surfing right out in front of his home on Tuason Point, his surfboard washing up but his body never recovered. Still more people suspect that the Hawaiian mob finally caught up to him, extracting revenge before leaving him for dead somewhere deep in Siargao’s mangrove swamps.
 
Then again, we can’t give much credence to those rumors, as spreading gossip, or chismis, is an artform in the Philippines. 
 
I’ve even heard whispers that Boyum carefully staged his own death to throw off the mob, and is still alive and hiding out on Siargao somewhere, doing his business on the outskirts of General Luna before disappearing back into the jungle.

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But to indulge that fantasy would be irresponsible. People who were friendly with Boyum confirm that he did pass away from a fast. One local source says that he saw Boyum’s body buried in an unmarked cemetary plot, right along where Tourist Road stands today, thousands of surfers and vacationers passing by every year, unaware that they’re on hallowed ground.
 
No matter which version you believe (or want to believe), Mike Boyum’s death was never made official and no death certificate exists. 
 
I guess some legends never die.

-Norm  :-)

P.S. An abridged version of this perspective on Mike Boyum's final days in Siargao will be published in BeSiargao Magazine.

6 Comments
Maricor Arroyo
12/26/2019 08:58:33 am

Wow! Great read as usual! Merry Christmas Norm! Hope you’ll be happy in Siargao! Such a cool place to call home!

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11/27/2020 02:21:59 am

Oh My God!!! This is a great blog, I am happy that I have come across this one. It’s an amazing blog to read the last wave mike boyums final days in siargao the philippines . Thanks for this wonderful content. I loved reading your article, will definitely give it a try to store as per your advice. Great blog to share!!I have also found this resource Aotearoasurf.co.nz useful and its related to what you are mentioning.

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Jonathan Bouic
4/19/2021 04:34:07 am

Hi Norm, great story, thanks! However, according to what I've read, it was Bob Laverty who first discovered G-Land from a plane while flying to Bali. He convinced Bill Boyum to go there, but Mike wasn't part of the first trip. Laverty died while surfing Uluwatu shortly before another trip with both of the Boyums took place.

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    Norm Schriever is a best-selling author, expat, cultural mad scientist, and enemy of the comfort zone. He travels the globe, telling the stories of the people he finds, and hopes to make the world a little bit better place with his words.   

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