Getting to know Tamarindo, Costa Rica

Well, this is awkward.
 
Last month I sent you a long, detailed postcard about why I was moving to Las Vegas, Nevada to wait-out the winter/spring of Covid. 
 
Yeah, that didn’t happen.
 
Instead, I chose to relocate down to Tamarindo, Costa Rica. It’s actually a familiar locale, as I lived here from 2011 to 2012 in the land of surf, sun, and pura vida. ​

I even wrote a book about the experience, South of Normal.
 
And when Costa Rica opened up to all U.S. tourists on November 1st, I thought it was the healthiest and best place for me, mind, body, and soul.
 
I’m sure I’ll write about my new/old home, Tamarindo, a lot in the next few months, but here are 20 quick observations to get us started. After all, things move slowly in Tamarindo, and there's no need to rush or stress.

1. Tamarindo is actually named for a tree and the orange-like fruit here in Costa Rica. Tamarindo trees are found all over the Guanacaste province and look like the wide, leafy arbors with high canopies that you'll see in African landscapes. The pod's contents can be mashed to make an edible pulp and juice, which is perfect on a hot day on the beach. 

2. Tamarindo sits on the pacific northwestern coast of Costa Rica, in the province of Guanacaste and the Santa Cruz canton (the closest small city.) But I prefer to pinpoint Tamarindo just by its map coordinates of latitude: N 10° 18' 0.43" and longitude: E 85° 50' 24.47". 
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Come to think of it, that would make a cool tattoo!

3. “Tama," as it's sometimes affectionally called, may be world-renowned, but it's a small village, or pueblo, that spends maybe a couple of miles by a mile at most. The last census accounted for only 6,000+ residents, and I've heard there are still only about 10,000 now. 

4. There are a good number of high-end condos and modern developments but they've also carefully curbed zoning, so it doesn't get too commercialized or the ocean view blocked out (with the exception of one monstrosity of a condo complex in the center of town that I have no idea how it was approved). 

​5. In Tamarindo, there are only two main roads through town and about half of them are unpaved. You won’t even find street names or street signs, but people give directions like, “200 meters north from the hotel Botella de Leche” or something like that. 

6. You’ll also see more bicycles, motorbikes, ATVs (many with surfboard racks!), and the rare horse on Tamarindo’s roads than you will cars!

7. The big draw to Tamarindo is the beach, of course, a 1.5 mile stretch of clean, near-white sand that’s level and sufficiently wide. Life in Tama revolves around the scenic beach, as just about everyone comes out in the early morning to walk their dogs, surf, exercise, or sit and enjoy coffee and brekkie. Surfers and sunbathers do their thing all day, and the beach becomes a social gathering point once again at sunset.

​8. Thanks to its close proximity to the equator, every day has about 12 hours of sunlight, with little seasonal changes (except for rain, of course). Likewise, the water temperature in the Pacific Ocean at Playa Tamarindo ranges between 77-86°F all year, which is never too chilly that you need a wet suit, even if you're in the water for hours.

9. Speaking of surfing, Tamarindo was put on the map by Robert August and Michael Hynson in the 1960s and 1970s with their iconic Endless Summer II surf film. Tamarindo took off as an international must-surf destination, and August became a legend. He still lives in Tamarindo, and you can see him strolling on the beach from time to time.

10. Costa Rica is known for its natural beauty, flora, and fauna. In fact, the Central American Nation contains only 0.4% of the world's landmass but holds 5% of its total biodiversity. And Tamarindo is no exception, with plenty of monkeys, sloths, lizards, Leatherback turtles, and a stunning array of bird and fish species. 

​11. You might even be able to catch sight of a whale off the coast of Tamarindo, and there are a few sharks from time to time. (But you’re more scared of them than they are of you.) If that makes you a little hesitant to swim or surf, rest assured that the plentiful crocodiles will probably getcha long before a shark will!

12. You don't find winter, fall, spring, and summer in Tamarindo (or Costa Rica). But you will find a hot and dry season from December to May, and the rainy or green season that culminates in a soaked October. 
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13. While Guanacaste (where Tamarindo is located) is less humid than other jungle or coastal areas, the rainy season is NO JOKE! I write a lot about it in South of Normal, but life is completely different for the residents, Ticos (the name for Costa Ricans), and crazy people who stay during the wet months. 

14. The other thing you’ll find in Tamarindo is that prices spike during the high season from December through April (Easter). You might be able to rent an apartment for $1,000 per month during the slow season, but then they want $1,000 PER WEEK during the high season! It’s bonkers and leads to a lot of scrambling to keep rent reasonable for long-term residents.

15. This time around, I splurged for a condominium in Playa Langosta, a quiet residential neighborhood on a jungle peninsula adjacent to Tamarindo. There’s only one road in and out, and secluded strips of sand in between rocky crags, a few high-end resorts, and trees growing out of the beach. 

16. There are only a few small restaurants in Langosta and one small grocery store. My condo complex, Peninsula, is way too nice by my humble traveler standards haha, and I'm thoroughly enjoying the two swimming pools and view of the jungle from my balcony.

17. And there's even good Wi-Fi, something that's the bane of my existence because it's hard to find in tropical beach towns around the world. 

18. Although Tamarindo may be a little tropical hamlet, the food scene is vibrant, cosmopolitan, and international. There are plenty of pizza and Italian restaurants with purveyors and chefs straight from Italy, an Argentinian steak house, Caribbean joints, local fresh seafood, Japanese sushi and Asian fusion, and even Middle Eastern and Indian fare. There are also countless boutique hotels, food trucks, and cafes with creative chefs and plenty of vegan or healthy options like acai bowls and fresh fruit smoothies.  

19. Oh, and if you’re a coffee fanatic, Costa Rican java is some of the best in the world!  

20. Costa Rica has plenty of unique customs, like their national saying, pura vida (pure life). Well, Tamarindo has its own micro-culture as well, a blend of surfer, Rasta, skateboarder, hippie, yoga-d out, chillaxed beach vibe. In Tamarindo, shoes are never required, wearing a t-shirt with sleeves is dressing formally, and “manana” means why do it today when it can be put off until tomorrow!?  
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I'll share a lot more about Tamarindo in coming months, but I'll leave you with this: after an incredibley stressful eight months in the U.S., it feels like I can finally breathe again down here by the beach in Tamarindo! 

Your friend,
Norm  :-)